Friday, August 22, 2008

Finalmente!.. Olympus 8mm Fish Eye..

Por fin llego mi nueva adqusición en cuanto a lentes. Aunque no lo he probado completamente, aqui esta la ceremonia de apertura de la caja y unas primeras fotos comparativas con algunos otros lentes.

Compre el lente en B&H en línea ya que por lo general los precios ahí son mas bajos, si alguna vez visitan la ciudad de New York, debe de ser prioridad una visita a la tienda.

He aqui lo que viene en la caja del lente...

IMGP1087 IMGP1089 IMGP1090
La Caja4/3 YES!!!Garantía mundial
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El LenteConcavoJunto al 11-22mm

Lo puse a prueba para tener una referencia de los grados con los que se puede tomar con el lente, Aqui unas pequeñas muestras...

P8233284-1 P8233282-3 P8233280-5
50 mm macro11 mm8 mm

Y obviamente no sería un test completo sin probar

las capacidades de distorción.. el único modelo disponible.. Lulú

P8233288-1 P8233291-1

Voy a planear un proyecto para poner el lente a prueba probablemente al centro de la ciudad de Seattle para tomar buenas fotos de edificios...

Tips on...<Classic Cars>

What to take

  • Camera and a 70-200 telephoto lense (or close to that range)
  • Walking boots and hat
  • Food and Water
  • Sun block
  • Get a program to assess the circuit

Tips

  • Approach static classic car as you would human portraits. Use a zoom lens and an aperture of around 5.6 or 8 to throw the background out of focus and keep the car the focal point
  • Shooting from a low angle adds impact
  • Soft clouds make give smoother shadows and texture to the metal shapes and curves while early lighting is much more flattering than the light of midday
  • The small details on a classic car are often exquisite. Bonnet mascots, dashboards, lights and bodywork curves are all great reasons to bring a macro lense. Use an aperture of f/8 at close quarters to give a smooth out-of-focus background, while keeping the main subject sharp.
  • Be aware of people wondering in the shot, unwanted reflections can ruin a great composition
  • If there are some racing involved, get early to the pits to get shots of mechanics these make for great B&W shots,
  • Also on racing, get to the circuit early and keep an eye on the sun direction (be prepared to move around as the sun does)
  • Pack enough memory cards to really practice that panning technique and vary shutter speeds between 1/1250 secs and 1/500 secs depending on the speed of the car.
  • For dealing with crowds a good trick is to work with them, bring a tripod with a shutter speed of 2 secs and at f/22 will make the car stand out from the blur of the crowd
  • Ensure you take pictures of clean cars, they are much more photogenic that even the midly dirty ones.
  • Shoot details early in the day before dust and fingerprints appear
  • Get to know the owner they might be open to the idea of a separate photo shoot later, outside of the event
  • Understand what you are shooting, do your homework and get to know the famous or historically important cars seek out rare cars as your pictures can make it part of historical records
  • Work with available light, early morning light is very flattering for the metal on the car.
  • A cloudy day with a touch of fill-in flash is preferable to direct sunshine.
  • Fill in the frame with color and detail. Simple frame filling shots are often the most striking. Concentrate on one detail, color or shape, with classic cars most details are exquisite and well worth a shot)
  • Take care when shooting reflections -look for shapes and textures reflected in shiny paintwork and mirrors

Be aware of reflections

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Focus on the details

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Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Pantone Huey Pro Problems

I am certainly not an expert on Color Management, I just knew that it was needed in order to ensure that what appears on your monitor is the same or very close to what you will get on a print out in terms of colors and tones. I bought the Pantone Huey Pro around 7 months ago, back then Amazon.com and other photo sites had good reviews regarding this product. Well after a few months I started seeing some problems with a reddish color and bad calibrations. So looking at the Pantone website there is a current known issue with this specific product. Look at the details here on their support website. I created a support request from them, they do require some information such as your video card, monitor and the Pantone Serial Number. You can get that by downloading their little application here. They replied in less than 24 hours letting me know that due to some issues they couldnt send me the exact same replacement but they offered me to sending me at no cost their pro-solution X-Rite Eye-One Display2. I should be getting it today. So for all of you that have this product be advised if you start seeing some weird behavior.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Tagging with GPS...

Geo-tagging your pictures is the process of embedding GPS coordinates inside your photos metadata for later retrieval of different types of Software.

Tagging your photos with GPS data, facilitates the sense of community and sharing of your pictures; I have found it very useful to explore places I will be visiting just by looking at other's people pictures based on the exact location I will be and what other people photographed there.

There are lots of different ways of doing it, the easiest one and most expensive is using certain devices that can be attached to your camera (I have only seen it on Nikon, nothing on Olympus yet) and every time the shutter is pressed, GPS coordinates are written to the file inside the camera. On the other side of the spectrum, downloading the files, doing your digital workflow and then use software like Flickr to assign "close-enough" coordinates is by far the cheapest.

Here is a review of a solution in the "middle of the road" that has proven cheap and easy to incorporate into the digital workflow.

Choosing a GPS.

There are lots of options out there, I spent 1 day researching and to me it came down to the following devices:

At the end of the day it came down to 2 criteria;

Need to load a driver on my computer and the power options. I went for the Amod AGL3080 because it connects via USB and its immediately map as a drive on my PC, and it uses regular batteries vs being charged via USB.

Here is a quick review of the GPS and the whole process:

Once I received the GPS, I wasnt very impressed with the packaging, it comes with the GPS, no batteries are IMGP1077included (it requires 3 AAA) it includes some mapping software that I haven't installed yet and the manuals are included inside the device on a pdf format.

The GPS itself is small and its design to be IMGP1075used attached to a belt clip or to your camera bag. Once the batteries are in, it took no more than 1 minute to get a lock on the satellites and start recording the position.

I used it "on the field" on a recent trip to Alki Light House here in Seattle. First things first: the GPS came with a protective plastic sticker, very similar to watches: DONT REMOVE IT. The unit itself will get scratched very easiy without it, and since it will be attached to your bag, it could get damaged, that happened to me when I put my bag down on the stone beach at the Lighthouse.

This is very, very important, make sure that your IMGP1076camera's time and date are accurate. A good tip also is to take your first picture of your watch to have a record of the time you started shooting.I made the mistake of not 20080814-P8153103 setting this up correctly and while fixable latter its a pain the butt (My cameras were purchased in Singapore so they were 14 hours ahead). Once you have done this you are set. The GPS acquired signal and off we went. I turned on the GPS as soon as I left home, and didnt turn it off until we got back home some 9 hours later. If you have attached the GPS unit to your bag, just make sure not to leave it on the car!

Once we got back home, I realized the mistake of the camera's date and time. So here is what I had to do to fix it:

First we tried to fix it by copying the RAW files and 8-17-2008 10-33-53 AMusing lightroom' s b ulk time and ate change functionality. Only problem with this approach is that Lightroom did not modify the original RAW file, but rather created an extra file with the new EXIF data for each RAW file. Finally we decided to use the Olympus Master 2 Software which has the same bulk date change functionality but it actually modified the RAW file.

With the RAW files fixed for the RAW files in both my cameras, we were ready for the geotagging process. Here are the steps:

We attached the GPS receiver to the computer USB which attached as another drive and use the file generated which was 8MB in size. By using a SW called Downloader Pro we downloadpro manage the whole process of tagging the pictures. Under the Edit Menu on GPS Settings we set the different parameters such as location of GPS file, the offset or window to match the pictures (In this case is 5 minutes). By doing this the software matches each photo's time within a 5 minute window on the log file trying to do the match. If it cant match it, an error is generated for that specific file. An output folder also is specified to generate a goggle google track's file that can be used later to look at the entire journey. (For some reason it runs rather slow on my computer using I.E). The process takes very little time and it generates a set of RAW files with the GPS coordinates. (There is an option also to export to DNG directly from Downloader Pro but I did that using Lightroom).

Once this is completed, then you can use your regular workflow to edit and process your images. The neat thing now is that all of your exports from Lightroom will now have the GPS coordiates and can be shared in applications like google, live or Flickr.

Here is how the finish product looks like in lightroom. By lrpic clicking on the little arrow next to the coordinates it will open Googmaple Maps with the actual location of where those GPS coordinates represent. It is a very cool process and it doesnt take a lot of time or money to achieve. I spent $60 USD for the receiver and $30 for the Dowloader Pro License. I think to get this extra information and functionality out of your pictures is well worth it.

Any questions drop me a line...

Places I've shot in